I live in Hamilton, Ontario. Glad the schematics were of some use. When a person says they have a YGM-3, there are a number of schematics that could apply. My own YGM-1 has the tremolo section out of a YGM-3, not the one shown on the schematic. It appears that Traynor and Yorkville sound were continuously changing the designs and not documenting each change.
Regards, John
I am the proud owner of a YBA-3A Super Custom Special bass amp and am very interested in the company and other users of their equipment. Thank you in advance for your help.
>Sincerely, >Steve Ritzi >Portland, Maine, USA
I am a new owner of a YBA-3 custom special, and am just learning about these great amps. I know they came in two configurations, with later ones having an active tone circuit. Is that where the "A" in YBA-3A comes in? I just had my amp re-tubed and checked and it sounds great. I have what appears to be a non standard pot near the master volume marked "attack" Well, it used to be marked "attack" the letters came off when I tried to clean off some of the scum. I'd love to talk more with you about the amp. Tony SchmidtThe "A" seems to have referred to a higher wattage animal. The Bassmaster is the YBA-1 - 40 watts. The Mark II is the YBA-1A, 80 watts (same tube layout, higher plate voltage). The YBA-3A is the Super Custom Special - 250 watts (as opposed to the Custom Special's 160 watts). It used completely different output tubes and, I think, a totally different power amp circuit.
I also have a Custom Special, the later model with the Master Volume/active tone controls. I find that 160 watts is enough for me. Considering that the trade off is to use hard-to-find tubes instead of the trusty EL-34, I'm happier with the YBA-3. I have yet to find a situation where the diminuative rating of 160 watts didn't cut through _VERY_ well.
KO
P.S. I don't have an "Attack" knob. Mine are Master Volume, Volume, Deep switch, Bass Expander, Bass, Treble Expander, Treble, Bright switch and Presence (in no particular order).
My YBA-3 is different than Kraigs in that it has no master volume. I think it is an older model. Another difference I found is that when you compare schematics from older and newer YBA-3s, you will find that there is one less gain stage used in the earlier models. (only 1/2 of the first 12AX7) .
I performed a modification which changed my amp to match the schematic for the later models(both stages of the first 12AX7). I noticed a signifigant change in tone and relative volume(both better). This was not a complicated mod, and only involved a couple resistors and caps and some wire. I'm certainly no tech, but any experts here who could comment on this little mod and what exactly it accomplished would be greatly appreciated...
FYI, as general info, I measured plate voltages at 548v on my -1A and 589(!) on my -3...watch out, kids(and Ampeg)!!!!
Mike
It would be handy to know as I have a tech looking at the amp (when he gets over his backlog and his flu), and while he has the schematic it would be nice to be able to make sure he isn't too confused.
When I got the amp the ext speaker socket was taped over.
While the manual warns against using unmatched cabs, I presume that if the outputs are serial I can use two 4 ohm cabs (one in each output) for a total impedance of 8 ohms? If so I could in theory run my 4 ohm 2x10 and my 4 ohm monitor wedge.
Aaron
I think your tech is wrong - the Traynor YBA-3 and YBA-1A both run the EL-34 within spec, but hotter than usual for say, a Marshall. Everything I've ever heard says 160 watts for a 4xEL-34 Custom Special, 80 watts for the 2xEL-34 Mark II.
The schem with the 7027's is a very early model. They switched to EL-34's pretty early in the game, I have no idea when or how many with 7027's were made, but my EL-34's are definitely the original tubes. The 1972 schem on the web-site also shows EL-34's. Do you have the version with the "flip-top"? - are there two screws on each side of the cab and four on the top? If so, take out the side screws first, pull the top off and then unbolt the chassis from the cover. On the bottom of the cover you'll find the schematic for your head.
Ooops, just noticed that you said that you don't have the cab for the head - thought you were looking for a speaker cabinet to match the amp.
Does your amp have a Master Volume? If so it's from between 1969 and 1972 or so. You can find the correct schematic (or close enough) on the web site or I can send it to you.
>From memory: things on the back are the circuit breaker (or fuse for older amps), two speaker jacks (wired in series), power switch and ground switch. Standard direct outs didn't happen in Traynors as far as I know, but others on the list know more.
KO
Kraig, Micahel, et al ...
Well, I'd like to hear the YBA-3A, it must be quite the beast! I definatley have the 160 watt version, although my amp tech tells me mine is only putting out 100 watts with 4 EL34's. And speaking of EL34's, anyone know if they were stock on the YBA-3? I got a schematic from Yorkville and it shows 7027 output tubes? Kraig, I probably paid about as much as you did, maybe even more. I traded a fender pro amp with no speaker(est $450 value) for the Traynor, a (possibly) Silvertone bass head that uses 2 6L6GC's, and two CTS alnico 12" speakers. My Traynor is in a home built cabinet that I would love to replace with the real thing. Anybody know where I can get a cabinet for a YBA-3?
I had heard of the Traynor legend before and that they were great, bulletproof amps. I am a blues player and have to have tubes. I had been using a '68 Bassman 100 that I like a lot, but I recently found myslef in a new band that plays bigger clubs and the Bassman wasn't quite powerful enough. I was having to run the pre-amp and master volumes on about 7 or 8 and I really don't want to drive an amp that hard. I don't care too much for Ampegs and I certainly don't want to haul an SVT around, so I was looking for an decent, reliable bass head in the 150 watt range that wasn't prohibitively expensive or heavy. I also wanted something unique that had good tone. I have talked to people that really like mesa boogie D-180's and I may still try one but...the more I play through my Traynor the mroe i like it. I think a company could do very well in putting out a mid priced tube bass amp in the 150-200 watt range-maybe there just isn't enough demand or the demand is filled by the SVT? I've heard mesa is coming out with what they call the Buster which is 180watts I beleive.
Another question-I have a round hole in the top right in theback (as your are facing the back of the amp) it looks like it could have been a direct out or something like that-what am I missing here? Later, Tony
>Subject: Re: YB1-A series or parallel speaker outputs? aaron, >my amp tech says the output is 5 1/3 ohm which is three 16 ohm speakers. He said that 8 ohms is perferable but it will run 8 or 4 because something having to do with voltage compensation.
3 16 ohm cabs is a strange number for Peter Traynor to have picked on - especially if there are only two outputs for the speakers!
5 1/3 should be close enough to 4 to be safe? ( I hope).
Aaron
For me the Traynor is going to be a recording amp, possible occasional guitar amp, and something should I want something retero for a particular occasion, with the option of miking to a PA. It's a heavy best for the power compared to solid state amps and sound engineers don't like miking bass amps round these parts.
Aaron
--Hi JC
>since the max DC plate dissipation for an EL34 is around 30watts+ there is no way to get more than 120watts RMS of unclipped signal from a quartet output stage using those tubes and even that's pushing it ... similarly you should expect no more than 55~60watts of clean power from a duet of EL34's.
This is completely wrong!
First: I have measured the output of many YBA-3/As and found them to deliver 160Wrms output before visual clipping on a scope. Most guitar amps are rated for power without regard to distortion, which one can normally count to be at least 5%. This is not the same for hifi gear which must be specified with respect to THD.
Second: The plate dissipation rating of a power tube does not mean anything directly EXCEPT for how much WASTE HEAT can be thrown off the plate structure. In times past, hifi designers would use this as an indication of audio power capacity but it only applies to limiting class-A.
Third: A pair of 6CA7-EL34s can provide up to 100Wrms of clean output into a high enough load impedance-- which requires an 800V plate supply-- and still be within the tube's ratings. Note that tubes handle voltage stress more easily than current or thermal stresses, and also, that in times past, B+ of less than 1,000V was considered "low". How times have changed.
Petr knew what he was doing with his designs, and he was not afraid of asking engineers for advice. He read everything and applied it to the art of musical instrument amplification.
Play it loud! Kevin O'Connor London Power
Careful. Watts dissipated at the plate and watts output are two completely different things. Believe it or not, it's actually possible to get about 75 watts from a pair of EL34 under conditions typical in, for example, a Marshall -- 475-500 volts on the plate. Most of the old tube data books claim 100W from a single pair is possible at higher plate voltage. This is at about 5% distortion, which isn't quite hi-fi, but is below clipping. In a typical guitar amp the output transformer becomes saturated before it can deliver that much power. Note that the 100 watt Marshalls can measure over 200 (heavily clipped) watts at Nigel Tufnel levels.
-- Dave
I've had the same experience with my YBA-3. It put out right at 100 watts on the bench, and the tech told me that the tubes were at about 70% of new. This would indicate max clean output of about 120-140 watts with brand new, decent tubes. Coincidentally, this nearly matches a figure of 130 watts printed on the "owners manual" provided to me by Yorkville, Canada. Thanks,
Mike
Small point. I have a custom special that originally was tubed with 7027As . I've owned it longer than I care to admit! I've replaced a few 7027As over the years. Unfortunately the 7027As have been a little hard to come by. With some guidance and good wishes from Kevin O'Connor at London Power I converted the amplifier to accept 6550s. I still miss the 7027As but want can you do.
I have a photocopy of the schematic for the original 7027A model sent to me by Yorkville Sound when I wanted to modify the amplifier to have a master control. Perhaps I should send this to JC who could offer it to everyone on his website.
Terry
I am a guitarist who just found a stock little YBA-1 from a friend. I am going to go to a grounded power plug and some other little items. While I was looking in this amp I remembered that Dan Torres wrote about mods for this amp. Now, I should say that I don't like "Torres" mods as a rule, but it got me thinking. Does anyone have a good feel for this amp from a guitarists (vs. bass players) point of view. I'd like to go towards a JTM45 type of thing, but I read that this newer model YBA-1 lends it self to a "Tweed Bassman" type modification. What do the Traynor YBA-1 owners think? What are good initial mods for this amp without going overboard? Any info, opinions and WARNINGS are appreciated.
If anyone is REALLY recommended for work on these amps, I might consider just sending it out for a real checkup and mod. Thanks, -- Jay
Traynor Signature YGA1, 1A 8 ohms 2 X 7027s 400V Traynor Bassmaster YBA1 8 ohms 2 X 6CA7s 436V Traynor Bassmaster Mark 2 YBA1A 8 ohms 2 X 6CA7s 540V Traynor Mark 3 YGL3, 3A 4 ohms 4 X 6CA7s 435V Traynor Custom Special YBA3 8 ohms 4 X 6CA7s 540V Super Custom Special YBA3A 2 & 4* ohms 4 X 6KG6As 560V *switchable
(I haven't checked most of these personally - the YBA3 diagram appears to say 8 ohms, but I have heard it refered to as 4 ohm)
All the Traynor outputs I have seen have had two output jacks in parallel, except for combo's in which the main speakers are wired directly with an extension jack in parallel. The main peaker out is a shorting jack - if no speakers are plugged in the output is shorted to protect the amp (tube amps do not like open circuit outputs). Therefore, you can not use the extension jack unless a plug is in the main output jack.
Tube guitar amps are fairly tolerant of speaker mismatches. Traynor obviously expected users to plug in additional speakers in parallel - so I suspect the nominal output impedance was higher than the actual optimal output impedance. As far as I know all Traynor 1 speaker and 4 speaker (series/parallel) cabinets are 8 ohms. Two speaker cabinets (parallel) are 4 ohms. I have a 6 speaker Traynor cabinet (a YC-610) that has a nominal impedance of 5.4 ohms (three pairs each wired in series and then all wired in parallel). In the good old days (late sixties) most Bassmasters were used with 4 ohm 2X15" cabinets. When two speaker cabinets were used the nominally 8 ohm amp was trying to cope with a 2 ohm load - very hard on the tubes. The users knew nothing of impedance - and didn't want to know. It never occured to us to rewire for a 8 ohm load. The amps didn't blow up though - despite the provocation.
I have listed some plate voltages (no guarantees of accuracy - I just ripped them from schematics) which help to explain Traynor power output. Traynor claimed that a YBA1A had approx. twice the power output of a YBA1 despite the identical tube complement and external appearance.
Eric
Hi:
Great Traynor page. I have located an old yba bassmaster, but the power supply doesn't seem to work. I suspect the power transformer may have been fried. Do you know of anybody that rewinds these things?
Best, Kevin
Gentlemen,
I hope you can help me save an old and trusted friend.. My Traynor BassMaster MkII YBA-1A experienced a major blowout last week. I found the page on the net that jc put together and the header said the schematic was there. I found the 2 other Bassmasters but not the MkII YBA-1A. Could one of you please send me a copy of the schematic or put it to the web site so I can download it. My amp actually burned up in a small section destroying the some of the electronics and wires.
Hoping you can help..
Larry C.
Attached is a copy of a Bassmaster Mark 2 (YBA-1A) schematic. I have two Mark 2s (great amps but scary voltages - I hate adjusting the bias) as well as a bunch of schematics and a users manual of sorts I received from Yorkville years ago.Ê I am also sending a copy to jc so he can put it in his archive if he wishes.
A copy of the correspondece will also be sent (less the attachment) to the Traynor mailing list, which you should join if you have not done so already. The administrative address is:
I would be very interested to hear more about what failed on the amp and your repair. As an owner of two of them, I have to expect some of those 25 year old parts to blow-up as well!
The only "weak" spots in the YBA-1/A are the screen and supply dropping resistors. These are side-by-side on the circuit-card, and usually dissipate enough heat to discolour the schematic. The screen resistor is 470-10W while the supply unit is 5k-10W.
You can save yourself some trouble in the future by installing individual 1k-5W screen resistors for each tube. And, Aaron, if you install 10R-1W cathode resistors, checking bias will be much simpler.
All of these techniques and a full dissertation are available in "The Ultimate tone vol.2". Check our website for details: <
Good luck Kevin O'Connor London Power>
You can save yourself some trouble in the future by installing individual 1k-5W screen resistors for each tube. And, Aaron, if you install 10R-1W cathode resistors, checking bias will be much simpler.
I'll pass that on to my amp tech. I keep trying to convince him to subscribe to this list! If he'd tell me his email address I'd forcibly subscribe him!
>Good luck >Kevin O'Connor >London Power
>... I saw your post and was wondering if you had received much help ?
Well, yes and no. I got an answer from Kevin and he told me that all my problems originated from signal leakage of my high-gain channel. That was of course what I guessed but he also told me that scrapping the cardboard was unneccesary as long as some care was taken when placing the components. This was enough to take me out of one year's amp-inactivity. (We are talking about the amp I use with the band so I am eager not to mess up too much.)
I moved the high-gain tone control components right on to the pots and got rid of those hot yellow wires. That did the trick. Unfortunately ;-S some of that feedback appears to have been responsible for the nice crunch I had.
Current plans are to copy the Marshall mastervolume preamp available at the ampage and to implement a bassman for the clean channel. Possibly I will try doing the switching (of channels) after the first triods, letting the first tube of the Marshall-channel double as the second input triod of the bassman.
I am also eager to get an effects loop (output). I need a triode to separate the tone control from the mixing point so I might try a JCM800 thing. Unfortunately it would be extremely useful with a separate output volume here. Unfortunate because there is no space for another pot. Unless, of course, I scrap the tremolo, hmmm.
With that second extra double-triode going in to make the bassman I need to adjust the power filtering down to the splitters. With a decreased resistor I should put in a larger capacitor and so I will. While at it I thought I might do something about the power-supply filter caps too. I seem to recall, (ok, I checked the log ;) that you said that the transformer could handle marshall-valued caps. Err, would that be 50u or 100u or something?
Btw, with all these changes I really have to document it. So I use xfig (free 'unix' software) to draw a schematic. I am not sure if an xfig schematic would be useful for you but if you are interested you can have it. I can imagine that you use a proper cad-program for such things but I can also imagine the opposite. (err, pen and paper)
He he, a long response to your question. Well, you caught me with the thing on my mind. Nice to hear from you.
Olof W
>... I was curious, what is the B+ like in the MkII and is there a cheap Hammond replacement for it ?
The B+ is a scary 540 volts. I didn't see an exact replacement, but the Hammond 274BX is close. Their web site lists it at 198 VA 375-0-375 volts centertaped 175 milliamps, 5 and 6.3 V filament windings. An old Electrosonic catalog (late 80's) gives slightly different specs (same voltages and milliamps though) and lists it at 8.8 pounds at $90 Canadian - well over a hundred now I would expect. This would produce slightly less thn the right voltage. I used to see Mark 2s for $75 in the mid 1990's. Oh well.
Eric
JC has a fascinating article in the latest Glass Audio (Jean-Charles Maillet: "Algebraic Techniques for Modeling Triodes" Glass Audio Volume 10, #2). JC develops a new approach to triode spice models, using the 12AX7 as an example. He uses the model to explain the sonic differences between blackface and tweed preamps, due to differences in imput circuit loading. I am afraid most of the detail of JCs work is over my head (despite my email address, I have a history degree) but I appreciate the significance of the recent developments in vacuum tube spice modeling to us Traynor fans. It is much easier to change a resistor value in a spice preamp circuit simulation than have to dig out a soldering iron. There are a few problems before amateurs like me will be able easily use simulations as a guide to amplifier mods:
1 The model must accurately simulate the performance of the amps - this is particularly true for guitar amps, as we delight in using tubes in non-linear overloaded conditions.
2 We must be able to correlate the data produced from the circuit simulations with the actual sounds produced by the real amplifiers. I have not had much luck with this in playing around with some of Korens' models and simple preamp circuits in the evaluation version of Microsim's spice.
3 It would be nice if there was a collection of preamp circuits (using the standard Marshall, Traynor, and Fender circuits and variations) that would make it easy to tinker without having to construct each circuit from scratch. Suggestions and tools for understanding the simulation results would also be very useful. Will the evaluation version of pspice model a complete guitar preamp? Or even better, an entire guitar amps. There are a few sites that have interesting spice tube models and information.
and also
Eric
>>Believe it or not, it's actually possible to get about 75 watts from a pair of EL34 under conditions typical in, for example, a Marshall -- 475-500 volts on the plate.
>I haven't seen this before ... what's the tone like and how are things different in the circuit ?
As far as the circuit goes, you just need a beefy power supply and an output transformer that's large enough and presents a 3.5k-4k load. I noticed that the old tube data books gave 'typical operating parameters' with something like 475 V on the plates, 400 V on the screens, a 4k load and biased rather cold; 25 mA per tube, if I remember right. I decided to check this out by drawing load lines, calculating power output, etc. It seemed to work out (in theory.) I also noticed that if you put about 500 volts on the plates & screens and biased at about 25 mA you could get a little more power still with 3.5k or 4k load. To be honest, it probably sounds like shit running that close to class B!
Tonight I decided to see just how much power I could get out of my '69 Bassmaster. This amp does have a beefy power supply and a comparatively enormous output transformer for a guitar amp; it's twice as big as the one in my Fender Showman.) This transformer presents a load of about 3.9k to the tubes with a 8 ohm load at the output. It DOES NOT put 500 V on the plates though, only about 425. Anyway, I plugged a 8.25 ohm power resistor into the speaker jack, put a 1kHz sine wave into the input, and with a pot soldered in place of one of the bias resistors, I set out to see how much power it would deliver if biased very cold. I didn't care what it sounded like. Well, the results surprised me. Maximum power was at exactly the bias that I think sounds best; about 34 mA per tube. But what really hurt was that it only put out a measly little 40 watts! I was sure it would be good for 50 at least. Biasing towards class B did not produce more power, even with a 12AT7 driver tube (which will actually deliver a larger undistorted signal than a 12AX7 despite the lower mu.)
Now life seems a little different...
-- Dave
On the subject of size of output transformers and voltages, the 100W White amp that is also being repaired (which if it needs too much work will be sold by the amp tech for the cost of labour, and if easy to fix, I get it back) Has 3 incredibly beefy transformers that almost put a Traynor to shame. The White head has 4 EL34s, and weighs around 1.5 to 1.75 times as much as a YBA-1A. This is a reason I am not necessarily that keen to keep it if a YBA-1A is rated at 80W, as the White is rated at 100W (and a hernia for me).
Aaron
. This would appear to be about the appropriate power output. Traynor claimed that a YBA1A (Bassmaster Mark 2) had approx. twice the power output of an ordinary Bassmaster (YBA1) despite the identical tube complement and external appearance. The two models were produced simultaneously - the Mark 2 was not a replacement for the YBA1. The plate voltage for the YBA1A is 537 volts - a hundred more than the YBA1. The YBA3 is effectively a doubled YBA1A - the plate voltage is the same but with 4 6CA7s.
A quick way to tell a YBA1A from a YBA1 in a dark music store - YBA1As have a noisy fan to dissuade the output tubes from attempting suicide.
Eric>(I have not seen a Bassmaster schematic with a bias current listed).
On the Bassmasters, the bias is set by indirectly measuring screen current. As pointed out in "The Ultimate Tone vol.2", this is viable when you have reasonably consistent tubes, as Traynor had back in the sixties, and as one can get from Svetlana today.
The factory procedure was to look for 4v across the 470-10W common screen resistor. This would reflect the flow of 8-9mA of screen current, or a hot 35-40mA per tube at 540Va-- 21-23W/tube at idle. This contributed to the clean sound of this class of amp.
Have fun Kevin O'Connor
>This transformer presents a load of >about 3.9k to the tubes with a 8 ohm load at the output. It DOES NOT put 500 V on the plates though, only about 425. Anyway, I plugged a 8.25 ohm power resistor into the speaker jack, put a 1kHz sine wave into the input, and with a pot soldered in place of one of the bias resistors, I set out to see how much power it would deliver if biased very cold. I didn't care what it sounded like. Well, the results surprised me. Maximum power was at exactly the bias that I think sounds best; about 34 mA per tube. But what really hurt was that it only put out a measly little 40 watts!
... my 69 super puts out 48wattsRMS on EL34's at 1khz if I remember ... I haven't found Traynor tranny's to be that efficient though that doesn't mean they often sound great, the big Hammond woppers in MkIII's I find especially inneficient at low frequencies ...
is it possible that you are trying to achieve high power from an under-biased output stage ? Like your test proves 34mA is the way to go in that amp with those tubes according to your ears; 40 watts of great tone ain't bad in my books ...
... it turns out that a lot of techs follow the "Marshall" method which sets the bias right close to the post-onset of notch dissapearance while some claim that the sweet spot is slightly later (or higher) bias ... I noticed on a scope that the notch doesn't so rapidly dissapear as soon as the notch starts cutting out, and in fact there's always a bit of a bump ... if the notch starts dissapearing at 30mA then,say, at 34mA the notch has gotten insignificant and by ear we can detect this - a jangly response is begotten it seems ... beyond that bias level the tubes start running hot and the output stage starts to sound harsh ...
now ... between power, tone, or the nice chick in the bikini which one would you go for ?! ...
I'm posting part of a reply I got from Eric Knudsen concerning bias on his MkII (thanx and I hope you don't mind me quoting this useful info) ... I'd like to also post bias information on the traynor page so that it can perhaps assist with novice bias settings and repairs ... if anybody else wants to post similar info that would be great ...
>... I was curious, what is the B+ like in the MkII and is there a cheap Hammond replacement for it ?
The B+ is a scary 540 volts. I didn't see an exact replacement, but the Hammond 274BX is close. Their web site lists it at 198 VA 375-0-375 volts centertaped 175 milliamps, 5 and 6.3 V filament windings. An old Electrosonic catalog (late 80's) gives slightly different specs (same voltages and milliamps though) and lists it at 8.8 pounds at $90 Canadian - well over a hundred now I would expect. This would produce slightly less than the right voltage. ---
Speaking of high B+ I thought I'd mention that I've got two very early Garnets, the first edition BTO and the first edition Session Man ... both run at 540v like your MarkII and they sound quite Plexi-ish but I wouldn't say the power rating is any higher than a 465v Marshall, in fact I'd say it's just a shade less powerful at it's optimum bias level ... incidently, the bias circuit in Garnet amps has an underrated filter cap and, at least I think, it needs to be made variable though Gar Willis strongly opposes the use or need for variable bias ... I strongly oppose his strong opposition only so I can have my way :)
jc>>
I find it hard to believe that a Fender Super produces 48Wrms. The later Super Reverbs that I have tested only produced their rated 40Wrms at significant THD.
The transformers in the Mk3 are very similar to the 1650T, but rated for a narrower bandwidth. This shaves a few pounds off the unit wieght-- although you might not think so, lifting one of these amps.
>is it possible that you are trying to achieve high power from an under-biased output stage ?
This is a viable design approach but it has to be implemented right from the start. The screen driven circuits that are becoming popular now can be set up as nearly pure class-B stages for tone that is remarkably similar to power grid triodes.
In most guitar amps, the power supply is sized to be just adequate to produce the rated power with the stock tubes. It is unlikely that you could get any more power by changing bias or tubes since you have already reached the limit of the supply. The limitations of drive have been tested for by swapping in alternative tubes, so one could assume then that the power supply limits have actually been reached. You should measure B+ at idle and at full output.
Your article in "Glass Audio" was excellent, particularly in explaining grid current compression effects. Keep up the good work!
Have fun Kevin O'Connor